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Emerald cut and Asscher

Step cuts do not sparkle, they flash. The emerald cut and the Asscher show a stone as it is, which sets demands on its clarity.

Emerald cut and Asscher
Photo: Karl Moore / Unsplash
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A step cut has long facets that run parallel to the edge of the stone, like the steps of a staircase. Looking in from above is often compared to a hall of mirrors: broad, calm planes of light and dark instead of many small flashes.

Emerald cut

A rectangle with cut corners. The cut was developed for emerald: the cut corners and the open facets put less stress on a brittle stone. For diamond and other stones it became a style of its own, strongly associated with Art Deco.

Asscher

A square step cut with deeply cut corners, so that the outline is almost an octagon. It was developed in 1902 by Joseph Asscher in Amsterdam. Seen from above it shows a pattern of concentric squares.

Baguette

A slim, rectangular step cut, mostly used as a side stone next to a larger centre stone, or in a row in a band.

Clarity and colour show

A brilliant cut hides small inclusions in its sparkle. A step cut hides nothing: you look straight into the stone through a large, open table. Choose a higher clarity than you would for a brilliant, VS2 or better for a diamond, and see the stone before you decide. A tint in the colour is also visible a little sooner.

Size and price

An emerald cut looks large for its weight because of its long outline and big table. Step cuts usually cost less per carat than a round brilliant of the same quality. Part of that saving goes into the higher clarity you need.

Settings

The cut corners make step cuts less vulnerable than a princess or a pear. They look good in a plain four-claw setting, in a bezel, or flanked by two baguettes. For all cut families, see stone cuts.

Jewellery with emerald cut and asscher

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