Gold and diamonds come out of the ground, and how that happens differs widely from mine to mine. A number of labels and schemes try to give buyers something to hold on to. It helps to know what each one actually covers.
Fairmined and Fairtrade gold
Both labels certify gold from small-scale, artisanal mines that meet standards for working conditions, safety and the handling of chemicals. The miners receive a guaranteed minimum price and a premium to invest in their community. The gold is traceable to the mine. A goldsmith has to be registered or licensed to sell under these labels, and the gold costs somewhat more than standard gold.
Recycled gold
Recycled gold comes from old jewellery, industry and electronics. It is refined to pure gold and is chemically identical to newly mined gold. No new mining is needed for your piece. Critics point out that gold has always been recycled because it is valuable, so choosing recycled does not by itself reduce mining. It is a sound choice, but a different one from supporting better mining through Fairmined or Fairtrade.
Your own gold
The most traceable gold is the gold you already own. Many goldsmiths rework family gold into a new piece.
The Kimberley Process
The Kimberley Process has been in force since 2003. Participating countries certify that shipments of rough diamonds do not finance rebel movements fighting governments. It has reduced that trade strongly. Its definition is narrow, though: it does not cover working conditions, environmental damage or violence by governments. "Conflict-free" in the Kimberley sense is therefore a minimum.
Going further with diamonds
- Known origin: diamonds that can be traced to a specific country or mine, such as Canada or Botswana.
- Lab-grown: no mining at all, see lab-grown diamonds.
- Antique and reused stones: an heirloom diamond needs no new production.
The Responsible Jewellery Council
RJC certification applies to companies, from mines to retailers, and covers business practices across the chain. It says something about the company, not about one specific stone or gram of gold.
What to ask
Ask the goldsmith where the gold comes from, whether they work with Fairmined, Fairtrade or recycled gold, and what is known about the origin of the stones. An independent goldsmith buys in small quantities and usually knows the answer. Mention it when you describe your piece.