Your money is held safely until delivery · handmade by independent goldsmiths
Lujoro.
Join
⌕

CAD and 3D printing

Many goldsmiths now draw part of their work on a computer and print the model before casting it. What that is good at, what it does not replace, whether printed jewellery is "real", what gets printed and what does not, and how to ask about it.

CAD and 3D printing
Photo: Kuromi Lu / Unsplash
On this page

Many goldsmiths now design part of their work on a computer. The design is drawn in 3D, printed as a model in wax or castable resin, and then cast in metal in the traditional way, see lost-wax casting. The printer replaces the hand-carved wax, not the goldsmith: everything after the casting is the same bench work it always was.

What gets printed

Not the jewellery. What comes out of the printer is a model in wax or resin, which is invested, burnt out and cast in gold, silver or platinum. Direct metal printing of precious metal exists but is rare and expensive, and a "3D printed gold ring" almost always means a printed wax cast in gold. Printed resin jewellery, worn as resin, is a different thing altogether, cheap and not a goldsmith's product.

What it is good at

You see it first. A goldsmith can send you realistic images of the design from every angle, and adjust proportions, stone size or band width before any metal is used. For a commission at a distance that is a real advantage, and it is why many Lujoro commissions start with a rendering.

Precision. Settings for many small stones, exact symmetry, a ring that has to fit precisely against an existing one, lettering, geometric patterns: these are easier to get right digitally than by carving wax by hand.

Repeating and resizing. A design can be made again in another size or with another stone without starting over, which matters for a pair of wedding rings or a piece that will be ordered again.

What it does not replace

The printed model is only the beginning. The casting still has to be cleaned, assembled, set and polished by hand, and that finishing decides the quality of the piece; a poorly finished casting from a perfect file is a poor ring. A design that looks good on screen also has to be sound as an object: thick enough where it wears, with claws that hold, with a shank that will survive resizing. That judgement comes from bench experience, not from the software, and it is the difference between a goldsmith who uses CAD and a designer who only draws.

Hand or computer

Neither is better. Hand-carved wax and forged work have a liveliness and a subtle asymmetry that is hard to draw. Digital design is strong in precision and in showing you the result in advance. Many pieces combine them: a printed setting on a hand-forged band, for example, or a hand-carved wax scanned and mirrored for a matching pair. If it matters to you how a piece is made, ask. A good goldsmith will tell you without hesitation, and on Lujoro the technique is stated on the piece.

What it means for the price

CAD saves time on complex geometry and repeats, and costs time on the drawing; for a one-off simple band it is no cheaper than forging, for a pavé setting with sixty stones it is much cheaper than carving. The rendering you get in advance is worth having on any commission where you cannot sit at the bench.

See jewellery designed with CAD, or describe your piece.

Frequently asked questions

Can you 3D print gold or silver?
Not in practice for jewellery. The printer makes a wax or resin model, which is then cast in gold or silver by the lost-wax method. Direct metal printing of precious metal exists but is rare and costly.
Is 3D printed jewellery real jewellery?
If it was printed as a wax and cast in precious metal, it is exactly as real as any cast piece, and finished by hand the same way. Jewellery printed in resin and worn as resin is a different, cheap product.
Is 3D printed jewellery safe to wear?
Cast gold and silver from a printed model are the same metal as any other; the resin never touches you. Resin jewellery worn as resin depends on the resin, and cheap printed resin can irritate skin.
How does 3D printing jewellery work?
The design is drawn in 3D, printed in castable wax or resin, encased in plaster, burnt out, and the hollow is filled with molten metal. The casting is then cleaned, set and polished by hand.

Have something made?

Find an independent goldsmith, or describe your piece and receive proposals. Protected payments, your design.