The surface of a piece is a design decision. A mirror polish is only one option, and it is the one that shows every scratch. Textured and coloured surfaces are often more forgiving, and they give handmade work its recognisable character.
Hammering
A hammered surface is made with the polished or textured face of a hammer, blow by blow. A round face gives soft dimples, a narrow one gives lines, and a patterned one prints its own texture. Every blow is placed by hand, so the surface catches the light in an irregular, lively way. Hammering also hardens the metal, see hand forging.
Reticulation
Reticulation is a controlled form of melting. The goldsmith prepares the metal so that the surface and the core melt at slightly different temperatures, and then heats it with a torch until the inside begins to flow while the skin holds. The surface wrinkles into ridges and valleys like a landscape seen from the air. The outcome can be steered but never fully predicted, so each piece is unique. It is mostly done in silver and in some gold alloys.
Patina
A patina is a coloured layer on the surface of the metal, produced chemically. The best known is blackened or oxidised silver, made with a sulphur compound. Copper alloys can be coloured brown, red, green and blue. A patina is often used to deepen the recesses of a texture while the raised parts are polished bright.
How these surfaces age
- Hammered and reticulated textures are in the metal itself and do not wear off, though the high points become smoother and brighter over the years.
- A patina is a surface layer. On the raised parts of a ring it wears bright with use, while it stays dark in the recesses. Many people like this. A goldsmith can renew it.
- Matt and brushed finishes become shinier where they rub, and can be refreshed in minutes.
Do not use silver dip or a polishing cloth on patinated silver: it removes the colour. Warm water and mild soap are enough. See also silver.
