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Moissanite

A laboratory-grown stone in its own right, harder than sapphire and with more fire than diamond, at a fraction of the price. How it compares with diamond and lab-grown diamond, how it is told apart, what it costs, and who chooses it.

Moissanite
Photo: David Sykes / Unsplash
Hardness
9.25 Mohs
Specific gravity
3.21 – 3.22
Refractive index
2.650 – 2.690
Crystal system
hexagonal
what is that?
Fire (dispersion)
0.104
Colours
colourless to near colourless

What do these figures mean? →

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Moissanite is silicon carbide. It was discovered in 1893 by the chemist Henri Moissan in fragments of the meteorite that made the Canyon Diablo crater in Arizona, and natural moissanite is so rare that it plays no role in jewellery: every moissanite you can buy was grown in a laboratory, since the late 1990s, when the first gem-quality material came to market. It is not an imitation of anything; it is a stone with its own name, and the rules say it must be sold under it.

How it compares with diamond

Hardness. Moissanite has a hardness of 9.25 on the Mohs scale, harder than sapphire and second only to diamond among the stones used in jewellery. It is suited to a ring that is worn every day and keeps its polish for decades. See which stones can be worn every day.

Sparkle. Moissanite has more fire than diamond: its dispersion is more than twice as high, so it breaks light into more and stronger flashes of colour. Some people love that, others find it too much, especially in stones above a carat, where the rainbow flashes become a "disco ball" effect under strong light. It is also doubly refractive, so under a loupe the back facets look doubled; diamond's do not.

Colour. Modern moissanite is sold as colourless or near colourless, graded on the diamond scale as D to F or G to I. Older material, and some cheap material today, shows a faint yellow, green or grey tint in certain light.

Price. Moissanite costs a small fraction of what a mined diamond of the same size costs, and less than a lab-grown diamond, whose price has itself fallen far. A one-carat moissanite is priced in the hundreds of euros, not the thousands.

Not a diamond, and not cubic zirconia

Moissanite is a stone in its own right, not a diamond and not a "fake diamond", and a seller who calls it "moissanite diamond" is misleading you. Simple thermal diamond testers, which measure how a stone conducts heat, pass moissanite as diamond; jewellers use an electrical tester or a loupe to tell them apart, and a laboratory can always do it. It should not be confused with cubic zirconia either, which is far softer, heavier, and dulls over the years; moissanite does not.

What decides the price

Size, colour grade and cut, as with diamond, but on a much flatter curve: a three-carat moissanite costs only a few times a one-carat, where a three-carat diamond costs many times. The brand and the cut quality matter more than the material; a well-cut stone from a good grower looks better than a cheap one with the same weight.

Who chooses it

People who want a large, bright, durable stone without the cost of a diamond, or who prefer a stone that was not mined; couples who would rather put the budget into the gold and the making. It has no resale market to speak of, which matters to some and not to others. A goldsmith can set moissanite exactly like a diamond, in any setting. Mention it when you describe your piece.

Frequently asked questions

Is moissanite a diamond?
No. It is silicon carbide, a different mineral, grown in a laboratory. It is harder than any stone but diamond and has more fire, and it must be sold under its own name.
Is moissanite a lab-grown diamond?
No. A lab-grown diamond is carbon and chemically identical to a mined diamond; moissanite is silicon carbide. Both are made in laboratories; only one is diamond.
Is moissanite expensive?
No. A one-carat stone costs in the hundreds of euros; a lab-grown diamond of the same size costs more and a mined diamond many times more.
Does moissanite pass a diamond tester?
A thermal tester, yes, because it conducts heat like diamond. An electrical tester or a loupe (doubled back facets) tells them apart at once.
Does moissanite get cloudy or dull?
No. At 9.25 hardness it keeps its polish; only dirt behind the stone dulls it, and cleaning brings it back. Cubic zirconia is the stone that dulls.

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